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The Great War (1914-1918) Forum

Remembered Today:

"Memories of Flying School"


JohnReid

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The plywood paneling has begun,(slowly).Measure ,cut and shape over and over until they fit,compound shapes and all!Not a lot of room for mistakes.Some of the lower panels I will leave off and/or show fire damage.

This will be a little tricky as I want to show enough fire damage to have caused a flashover of the fabric but not enough to have caused the explosion of the fuel tank.The fire that I am planning would have originated around the carburetor and its piping.

__________________

It has been said that the difference between a "pilot" and an "aviator" is that a pilot is a technician,and an aviator is an artist in love with flight.

JohnReid (Aviator)

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Beginning the fire damage....

starting at the underside of the engine compartment.Remember the wreck is upside down with the tail up.The fire had time to burn through the thin plywood skin but not the bulkheads.Because it was burning towards the tail the bulkheads would act as a kind of fire break and the burning would be more confined to the aft side of the bulkhead.

Beginning the fire damage....

starting at the underside of the engine compartment.Remember the wreck is upside down with the tail up.The fire had time to burn through the thin plywood skin but not the bulkheads.Because it was burning towards the tail the bulkheads would act as a kind of fire break and the burning would be more confined to the aft side of the bulkhead.

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The gear assembly.

The gear will be up next.Quality wise the castings are poor but because my model will be upside down there is no need to strengthen it as I did for the Camel.I wont bother fixing dings and dents either for this accident victim ,a little weathering should take care of that.

Having built all of the Model Airways models,except the Wright's airplane,I think that this kit could actually be made into something quite nice.It would require new tooling and stronger material for the metal fittings.Also a little updating of the instructions and plans would be in order to make the steps involved clearer.

More accurate cutting of some of the laser cut parts to fit the supplied raw wood parts (example ribs to spars)Use of photo etch for fittings as was done for the Jenny.This would probably up the price a bit to the cost of the Jenny but well worth it in my opinion.Probably will never happen but.......

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Building upside down!

After I finish the gear I will then build the upper wing which is made as a single unit.The wing will be the basis for the rest of the build.I don't foresee any major problems as with a wreck you have lots of room for artistic license!

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On to the upper wing!

I haven't got around to weathering the cockpit yet but I think I will set this aside for now and build the upper wing assembly as it is really the base for the rest of this upside down piece to be built upon.

The upper wing is built all in one piece and I will leave it intact except for the odd ding here and there.The fabric will be mostly flash burned off so I will have to build all of the internal structure including the drag and anti-drag wires.

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John

Can't get my mind round the model suddenly appearing uncrashed! are there two or are the pics out of sequence. What am I missing. Equally I cannot for all the world imagine how you could break such a wonderful piece of work, which I assume is totaly scratch built. As usual, excellent craftsmanship, I shall never take up my scalpel again!

Regards

David

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The first step is to spray lacquer both sides on the laser cut board before removing the ribs.

Now take a piece of pink insulation board,lay on the upper wing plan and put a piece of wax paper over that and pin down.Take your ribs and pin them down over the wax paper/plan.The ribs themselves are not numbered so be careful that they are in the right order.Don't worry about the varying sizes of the lightening holes in the ribs as the plans are just not that accurate.

Next take your rib stiffener strips and lay them over the ribs.Be sure to leave a little extra room around the spar areas, as these will need some filing out later to have the spars fit through the holes properly.

Secure the ribs using small pins and put a small drop of superthin superglue at each rib/stiffener joint area.

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Fire scorched wood.

I have been trying to think of a way to scorch the wood of the wing ribs,spars and cap strips. I had originally thought of using pastels after the wing was built but now I am thinking that nothing will look as good as actually scorching the wood itself.I will have to do this before I finish the assembly of the wing.The key is to scorch the wood in such a way as to not affect the glue joints or distort or warp the wood in any way.( I know great time to think of this now)

I was thinking of using a butane lighter but that could easily get out of hand.I have an old iron that I used in my ship building days for bending planks and it seems to me that if you let it get hot enough it would eventually scorch the wood.I also have a wood burning tool that I used for bird feathering on carvings.

I also need to experiment with a controlled burn on fabric ,as although most of it would be flash burned off ,some remnants would remain.

Should be fun!

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Before scorching and weathering the skeletonized wing assembly I fitted the ribs to the fore and aft spars. Then when they were all bunched together I sanded the noses of all the ribs flat to later accept the leading edge.(there actually was very little to remove) The trailing edge will be worked on after the wing is assembled.

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