My walk from Schratzmännele via Barrenkopf to Kleinkopf

[egbert]

Here is my next trip in the Vosges mountains. After we had climbed the Buchenkopf the next day was scheduled for a walk across 3 summits each connected by an anticline. The mountains were also the most hotly fought place in the Vosges. Originally I wanted to start at the Lingekopf, but arriving there I was discouraged by the many tourists. There is a museum and a very well preserved summit (Lingekopf) with trenches and blockhouses. Also there are grave markers and plaques hinting to dead/buried dead visible from the parking lot. When I discovered that the entrance to this heritage and the gravemarkers was commercialized by a hefty entrance fee I was appelled. I have never seen before that a battleground being a European heritage and the places were dead are still existent requires a fee to enter. Note that this is public ground and that we have paid the preservation works or whatever likely through EU subsidies already. Just consider, New Foundland Memorial Park rips you off with 5 euro+ each.
Well the messenger dog did not appreciate the situation and called for duty. So consequently I changed my trip plan and took these pictures from the parking lot upon leaving.

[egbert]

The Lingekopf is one of the places where you can drive up and park right at the entrance. So this is the last picture before starting the notorious Schratzmännele

[egbert]

This is roughly the area I walked. You clearly see the opposing trenches come as close as 20-15 meters.

[egbert]

This part of the front is a mere 2km long and between 20 July and 6 Oct 1915 was subject to one of the bloodiest actions in the Vosges. During this short time period more than 17000 young French and German men were killed in action.

The walk covers both trench systems and No-Mans-Land

Here is the route the messenger dog approved after Gwyn's recommendation.

[IanA]

I forget what time I arrived at the Le Linge site but there was no-one collecting money and the site was completely open so we simply walked in. (This was many years ago and things may have changed.) The kiosk was being opened up as we came away.

[Dragon]

I've only paid once. That was because I wanted to see the film and the museum. In some ways, I can see Egbert's point about the entrance fee, but it's only 3€ for which you can look round an interesting little museum and watch the film in French, German or English. The film gives quite a helpful insight for first-timers about what happened.

Musée Mémorial Linge 1914 - 1918

On this website are some interesting letters and photos. Click on Témoignages and on Photothèque.

I found the staff there very helpful and knowledgeable, provided that I wanted to know about the French side of things.

Looking forward to more photos, Egbert.

Gwyn

[egbert]

The Lingekopf site was completely fenced off and the only way to enter was through the museum! no seperate entrance for the battlegrounds only. It was even secured by a turnstile to prevent "bypassers" . Again, to pay entrance fee to see where ancestors fought and died was appalling for me

[Dragon]

I understand what you mean. It would be better, perhaps, if the fee was for the museum and film, and entry to the land was free, as it is a memorial site.

I think that if a visitor has little idea about what happened, it's helpful to see the film and the exhibits at le Linge. If it isn't part of your history - and it isn't for most British visitors - it's a completely new body of knowledge. After all, there are people who are informed about the Great War who think that you can sail yachts up there.

When I've been in for free, the fence has been opened a little and it's clear that people go in and out.

Gwyn

[egbert]

I started the trip at the foot of the Schratzmännele, parking across the German cemetery Bärenstall. Climbing up the Schratzmännele did not show a lot. The Schratz was devastated in the war by artillery and the summit was recultivated after the war, trenches were filled in and the whole area afforested. Leaving the path some meters to the side reveiled though remnants of deep bunkers and cave systems. Indeed the Schratz was completely undermined.

[egbert]

Deep caves partly collapsed left and right off the path

[egbert]

Walking close to the summit of the Schratz there is an old quarry which , facing away from the front line, served the German reserve troops as shelter and supply point. The quarry once was heavily fortified. Here is a contemporary image from 1915

[egbert]

....and this is how it looks now, a quiet and peaceful witness of so many tragedies then

[egbert]

Continuing the summit path from Schratz via anticline towards Barrenkopf, more and more relicts appear. This is a contemporary picture of Barrenkopf from the French side. My walk is marked in orange; as you see the path stays almost on the top of the anticline

[egbert]

We pass German cemented/walled front line trench systems in remarkeable condition

[egbert]

and also walked the trenches in amazement

[egbert]

.....

[egbert]

Chester just explored this parapet complex near Barrenkopf. The holes in the concrete above the bunker seem to have been used as storage . This complex in fact is a front line trench looking down towards the very nearby French lines near Courtine

[egbert]

....and everywhere the ever-present entrances to deep cave systems underneath the peaks

[egbert]

At the Barrenkopf the German front lines tower above the French lines; actually it is an old quarry, dominated by the Germans sitting on top and which was subject of fierce attacks by the French.

[egbert]

The trenches are fortified by bunkers built directly at the rim for "excellent" fire support; they could employ enfilading fire across the quarry and supported each other

[egbert]

As you can see in a later picture, this bunker was built right above the abyss. Please enter now.....

[egbert]

Inside view towards the French. Their lines are down in the deep

[egbert]

...

[egbert]

...

[egbert]

This is the view towards the bunker being still on top of the quarry....