WWI German Uniforms

[P.B.]

Due to work commitments my collecting -and time on the forum- has taken a back seat recently. However, I've still managed to find some nice pieces which -in spite of the mediocre photography- I'd like to share with you.

Most collectors rate the other rank's M1910 infantry tunic as one of the most difficult -and desirable- items of WWI German militaria to find. This example is dated 1914, and has all the characteristics you would expect to see in a tunic produced at this time -that is the one colour grey twill liner, adjustable cuffs and sew-in belt hooks. This style of M1910 tunic was initially issued to Landsturm troops in 1913, before becoming standard across the infantry in September 1914 -Bavarian infantry adopting it the following month. All the buttons are original to the tunic, although the bottom three have been crudely resewn (50-50 as to whether this was wartime or post-war):

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Close-up of the underside of the collar, showing the flap and buttons used to hold up and close the collar in bad weather. Note also the shoulder straps -these are the unpiped simplified type adopted in January 1915 which replaced the slip-on boards piped in Army Corps colours- bearing the number of Infantry Regiment Nr 138 (3rd Unter Elsassisches) from Lower Alsace.

Note also the shoulder strap button bearing the number of the 11th company -in contrast to the brass buttons used throughout the rest of the tunic, these are of the post April 1915 type constructed of Zapon coated Siemens-Martin steel plate, finished with red-brown paint:

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The rear skirt of the tunic, showing the typical design used by almost all German infantry units -with the exception of Saxon ones- and the belt-support system. This comprised of the top two skirt buttons, which are actually specially made as belt-supports, and the tombak ramps at either side of the tunic waist:

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The three-button Brandenburg cuff worn by most Prussian infantry regiments....:

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....and the button and adjustment tabs used to vary the closure of the cuff:

[toofatfortakeoff]

very nice example.

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Next up is a M1915 Field Blouse, as worn by a junior NCO in Infantry Regiment Nr 47. This style of tunic was introduced in September 1915, initially in Prussia then subsequently by the other contingents of the German Army, Bavaria adopting their version in 1916.

It features a fly-front, and a collar faced with reseda green "Badge Cloth". This example is dated 1917:

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The rear of the tunic, showing the belt-support buttons and side hooks:

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Close-up of the collar, complete with wartime NCO lace, and the shoulder strap bearing the crowned "L" of Infantry Regiment Nr 47:

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The rear skirt, showing the "large crown" design buttons used on the M1915 blouse. The subdued, almost dark khaki finish is also typical of buttons found on these tunics:

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Along with the M1915 Blouse, an all-arms greatcoat was introduced in 1915. Again it copied the design of the fieldblouse in using a reseda green cloth to face the collar, and in having subdued crowned buttons. This example is dated 1918:

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The rear, showing the half-belt:

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A close-up of the reseda green collar, and a better view of those buttons:

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The shoulder straps for Infantry Reiment Nr 208. The small cloth loops are called "schlaufen" and were used to fold back the shoulder straps to hide the regimental number or monogram for field security reasons. These "208" straps are original, but I added them to this greatcoat as it came without straps -note I just slipped them on (not sewn!) so they are removable:

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Finally, a shot of the half-belt at the rear of the greatcoat. Notice the vertical slit which enables the tunics belt-hooks to be used even when the greatcoat is being worn:

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Lastly, a shot of a M1917 Einheitsfeldmutz -an all-arms version of the field-cap which replaced the various coloured cap bands and piping with a single reseda green colour as used on the collar of the M1915 blouse. This was introduced in July 1917, and this example has both of it's original cockades -the upper one being the national colours, the lower one designating a Prussian regiment:

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To TooFatForTakeOff.....many thanks for your kind words.

I hope these were of some interest, all the best

Paul.

[delta]

Paul

Superb photos and accompanying info - thank you

Stephen

[sherree]

Great photos. But what I really wonder is where did all that fabric for the 1000's of uniforms come from? Did each country have their own textile mills? Were the uniforms wool of cotton? And who sat there cutting, sewing and decorating them and how well were they paid? Was there a fashion designer to the soldiers? Some of your examples are a lovely cut and beautifully sewn. The mind boggles (well mine does) at the multitudes of textiles, buttons, brocade and machinist industries that the war created.

[uncle bill]

designers ? not as mad as it seems, the French used Monsieur Poiret, a leading couture designer to come up with a new greatcoat at the beginning of 1915.

[P.B.]

Great photos. But what I really wonder is where did all that fabric for the 1000's of uniforms come from? Did each country have their own textile mills? Were the uniforms wool of cotton? And who sat there cutting, sewing and decorating them and how well were they paid? Was there a fashion designer to the soldiers? Some of your examples are a lovely cut and beautifully sewn. The mind boggles (well mine does) at the multitudes of textiles, buttons, brocade and machinist industries that the war created.

Very interesting points....here are some basic notes on German uniform manufacture before and during WWI. Each Army Corps had a clothing department or "Bekleidungsamt" which as well as administering uniform issue also actually produced many of the tunics, trousers and caps.

If a tunic was produced by a private company, it would be first stamped with the manufacturer's details, then again with the clothing depot stamp if it met the inspection requirements. These clothing depot stamps are often found on issue tunics, and usually take the form of the letters "BA" followed by Roman numerals indicating the Army Corps -for example "B.A. XIX" would be the 19th (Saxon) Army Corps. At the end of 1914 a centralised uniform supply department in Berlin took over the administration of all uniform materials, supplying these to the individual Army Corps Clothing Depots as required.

On a related point, an M1910 tunic in the depot stocks would be complete except for the shoulder straps and shoulder strap buttons. These would be added once the tunic was issued, and the buttons bearing the soldier's company would be sewn on, and the shoulder straps simply slipped on through the cloth loops on the tunic shoulders. After January 1915 the straps would be sewn on, perhaps by the company tailor. Interestingly, every Prussian tunic I've ever seen has the straps sewn on to pof the shoulder seam, where as every Bavarian tunic has them sewn into the seam.

Officer's tunics were mostly privately purchased from military tailors, although an officer could purchase an issue quality tunic from depot stocks and affix his own rank insignia. Officer's tailored tunics can be found in a wide range of high quality fabrics such as whipcord and gaberdine, usually with a superior quality liner. Equally, an enlisted man or NCO could also get a tailored tunic -usually for walking-out- make at his own expense.

Issue M1910 tunics are made from a dense, hard wearing wool based fabric called "tuch". As the war progressed and the Allied naval blockade took hold, both the quality of the fabric and the construction methods suffered adversely -there was even an experimental attempt at weaving uniform cloth from paper, and the re-issue of tunics from dead and wounded soldiers became common. Generally, the quality of material and finish of German tunics declined as the war progressed.

As well as quality and finish, the uniforms introduced during the war were also simplified in design -compare the bare simplicity of the M1915 Field Blouse above with the almost ornate cuff and skirt details on the pre-war designed M1910 tunic. Even before the M1915 tunic was introduced, an attempt was made at simplifying the M1910 design to conserve materials, speed manufacture and improve it's suitability for front-line use. These "Vereinfachte" or simplified tunics appeared from March 1915, and were very similar to the standard M1910 tunic, with the exception of the cuffs and rear skirts. As the example pictured below -worn by a soldier in the 9th Comapny of Infantry Regiment Nr 72- demonstates, the cuffs were now of a simple turn back design, and the rear skirt, although retaining the belt supports and hooks, was also plain.

Hope this has been of some interest, all the best

Paul.

[lassuy]

Great uniforms! I'm anxiously awaiting my first Imperial German uniform piece, a greatcoat--purchased from a fellow in Hertfordshire. I can hardly wait. I was saving my money for a French overcoat, but when this German one became available, I jumped on it. I guess le Poilu will have to wait.

As an aside, in the book America's Munitions, which was published by the US War Dept. following the war, are a number of photos of the manufacturing processes of uniforms, hats, shoes, helmets, etc. The amount of materiel being produced staggers the imagination. The photo of the cutting floor of uniforms shows men cutting wool cloth layered a good foot thick. The pattern is chalked on the top peice of cloth, and they are cutting it with electric saber saws. Talk about turning stuff out in quantity. The warehouse pics are equally impressive, one that I recall shows a vast warehouse with nothing but wooden wagon wheels, stretching off into the distance, as far as the eye can see. And America was just gearing up for its short time in the war--the manufacturing and warehousing of the materiel of the long-time combatants must have really been something to behold.

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Lassuy

You make a very interesting point about the whole manufacture and supply industry that grew up around WWI. France and Germany, with their military districts and conscript armies pre-war already had a fairly large system of manufacture and supply in place, but presumably countries like the UK and USA really had to step up a gear to outfit their much enlarged armies of citizen soldiers.

Good luck in your greatcoat purchase -these are still reasonably affordable but it's already getting hard to find good examples. They also look really good displayed with a steelhelmet and field equipment.

Below is another M1915 Blouse from my collection, again a standard model with the reseda green collar and bearing the shoulder straps of Infantry Regiment Nr 216. It's dated 1918, and displayed with an early M1916 steel helmet and full infantry field equipment:

[sherree]

Yes very thorough and interesting research, thankyou. Much appreciated and enthralled.

I can't help but think that whoever was making the Australian Foot Soldier's wear was not the same tailor that was making the German uniforms that you collect. Would I be right!

[Gunner Bailey]

The photo of the cutting floor of uniforms shows men cutting wool cloth layered a good foot thick. The pattern is chalked on the top peice of cloth, and they are cutting it with electric saber saws. Talk about turning stuff out in quantity.

It's still done exactly the same way for any mass produced clothing, be it Mark & Spencers or an Army.

Gunner Bailey