Ypres Salient Visit 6-10 May

[kerry]

Just a few short paragraphs on my recent visit to the Salient. Dtayed at the Rum Jar in Elverdingstraat, Ypres. An excellent b & b (see posts in 'I'm Going To The Battlefields' section) and very handy for all the usual venues in Ypres.

Accessing Bayernwald - the Tourist Office in Kemmel is located down from the village green on the crossroads and is open from 10-12 and 1300-1700. They will not give the combination by phone - you must go in person, pay the E1.50 per person and get the combination. As most folk know, there is little room for manouvre for minibuses and none for coaches, and don't make the mistake we made and park by the front entrance as you have to reverse to get out of the narow lane. There is a new hard standing on the lane before you turn right into the access lane running past the entrance, but there is room only for about 3 cars.

Well worth a visit even if only to get the views the Germans would have had, of the CLoth Hall in the distance. The famously high flemish water table had flooded the mineshafts and were creeping up into the trench system.

Lettenberg bunkers - again, not far from Kemmel but badly signposted until you ge there, and again parking is virtually non-existent - choose your field edge. The bunkers are pristine with their new sandbags, and one is given over as a bat refuge. But a rather odd impression, given that they originally were entrances into a substancial HQ and admin HQ system. Rather like being invited to a refurbished mansion house but not being able to get beyond the door. I guess cost, and health and safety precluded opening up the system behind the entrances.

Sanctuary wood - the bit opposite Trench-Disney (apologies to the Moderators but I really do wish the 'Meester' would desist from digging his own 'shell holes') is still firmly out of bounds. However, entrance to the northern end is possible from a newly de-privatised route from just east of Hooge Crater Cemetery. This can take you to the back of the British lines to the north of Mount Sorrel, but not quite, owing to the lack of public access all the way.

The slightly more natural state trenches (flooded) in the garden to the side of t'Kassteelhof, on the Menin Road, are worth a visit and are more true to type than those at the other place, (with its mix of WW2 helmets and sidearms among the WW1 objects!!).

The 'In Flanders Field' museum is as always superb, especially the ticket you get with a life story you follow via the screen readrrs, but try to get in as soon as they open - we left it untilmid-morning and the place was so packed we could not access many of the excellent interactive screens and information boards, owing to the sheer numbers of visitors. As most folk know, Saturday is market day so forget parking behind the Cloth Hall unless you get there early.

The Berkshire Extension Cemetary at Plugstreet has a Last Post on the first Friday of the month at 1900hrs and is well worth attending, with many civic digniatries and the press turing out - but perhaps that was because it was the nearest to VE Day?

A walk up onto Hill 63 gives an excellent view to help explain the Messines and Whitesheet Ridge battles, and also gives a good view of the Irish Peace Park, also worth a visit with its stark statements, literally on tablets of stone.

Johan Vanderwalle's pub 'De Drewe' (he of the 'Underground War' programme fame) is also a good watering hole at the north east corner (so to speak) of Polygon Wood. He has a good display of photos from his various pumped out dugouts he visited and superb baguettes for lunch, but on weekends aim to get there before 1400 as his playpark gets inundated by Belgian families and he then has no time to chat!

Pool of Peace at Spannbroekmolen - compared with the beautifully landscaped Caterpillar Crater in Battle Wood, well, it does not compare well at all - rather more like an overgrown disused stagnant pond, the Toc H stone disappearing under nettles and badly weathered as to be almost illegible, litter, and neetles engulfing the steps down to the water. Quite disappointed on this first-ever visit.

Have some photos glad to e-mail folk of fortified shell craters and bunkers as they are too big to include in this post.

Kerry

[LizM]

Hi Kerry

Glad you enjoyed your visit

Sorry, missed you at Ploegsteert. There is always photographers there and civic digniatries.

This service in memory of all who died for us has been going every month since 1999 by the French and they for some reason do not get as many British visitors as they should for such an occasion, we need to get more visitors going. It is a wonderful service different every month.

Hope to meet you next time you are over.

Liz

[frie]

Pool of Peace,

Toc H in Poperinge is neglecting this beatiful pool. Litter is picked up after weeks, (sometimes months) In summertime people are swimming in the pool.... the netles and blackberries showing the neglect of the pool of peace. Need to be cleaned up - (not every 5 years). It could be marvellous. Nothing is done... Only the rabbits and the birds are happy. Its a jungle.... Its getting worse every year.... It's a shame.