OllieBeasley Posted 3 June , 2020 Share Posted 3 June , 2020 The shells are completely inert and are empty and have no fuse. I have many WW1 British, German and French shells all covered in rust that I need to clean. Most still have drive bands on and I don’t want to damage them. I am not talking about cases I mean the shell it’s self and I’ll say again they are completely empty and safe. How do you get the rust off your shells and stop them from rusting further? How do you clean the drive band without scratching it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peregrinvs Posted 3 June , 2020 Share Posted 3 June , 2020 I’ve used electrolysis, citric acid and molasses to clean rusted ordnance in the past. Use a brass brush and you won’t damage the drive bands. There are various threads on here regarding rust removal so I suggest you have a browse. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trajan Posted 4 June , 2020 Share Posted 4 June , 2020 I hope to try the molasses method this summer on a rusted and empty shrapnel shell. I don't imagine this will damage the driving band. I am also thinking of using it on a couple of scabbards. You might want to have alook at this excellent thread by JMB - https://www.greatwarforum.org/topic/262893-molasses-rust-us-m-1917-helmet/?tab=comments#comment-2665118 Trajan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMB1943 Posted 4 June , 2020 Share Posted 4 June , 2020 Ollie & Trajan, If you do choose to use a molasses solution, please keep in mind the following, 1. It is a very convenient “immerse and forget “ method. 2. It is very easy to forget!! 3. You will see from the weight loss I recorded with the helmet that it is aggressive. 4. From reports of the chemical composition of molasses, I believe that the removal of the rust is due to it being essentially a dilute solution of sulfuric acid———————-PROTECT YOUR EYES——————— 5. I had de-rusted a mess tin with no problems, and some months later decided on a second treatment simply because I had a batch of molasses already set up. This led to pinholes in the thin metal base!! 6. I used the solution out of doors, because after a while it develops quite a smell. I’m sure that we would all like to see before/after photos and a write-up, so good luck. Regards, JMB Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted 8 June , 2020 Share Posted 8 June , 2020 Do some research on a product called Evapo-rust. I've used it before and it works great. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Interested Posted 8 June , 2020 Share Posted 8 June , 2020 Ordinary white vinegar (5%) works OK, again on the "immerse and forget" principle, but I wouldn't leave it longer than a week before checking on progress. The iron/steel turns grey and will need treatment to prevent re-rusting. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trajan Posted 9 June , 2020 Share Posted 9 June , 2020 8 hours ago, Interested said: Ordinary white vinegar (5%) works OK, again on the "immerse and forget" principle, but I wouldn't leave it longer than a week before checking on progress. The iron/steel turns grey and will need treatment to prevent re-rusting. I tried this on a Russian Nagant bayonet once - the blade, made of high quality steel - came out ok, but the socket - made of poorer quality steel - was badly pitted and grey... I would guess shells are harder, but... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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