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Remembered Today:

Cleaning and Conditioning Vintage Leather


morrisc8

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Anyone know the best way for Cleaning and Conditioning old Vintage Leather that`s gone hard or should i just leave it alone, [ on my water bottle ]  and other leather kit.

I have seen so much info on the web, just need to know what you use that works.

 

 s-l1600.jpg

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There was a similar discussion a few months back, regarding Biffo's Pickelhaube:

 

Edited by Dai Bach y Sowldiwr
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I have no idea if this is considered OK for old military kit such as yours but using 'Neats Foot Oil' I restored an old trouser belt [c.70yo] which I have since worn pretty much daily for many years now [you have to be careful that not too much oil is used/well wiped afterwards as it can subsequently stain clothing for a while - especially white shirts! :-/] and also stirrup leathers which I then also used for many years.

Also used it a long time ago on a Canadian leather work jacket.

[but got to be careful /limited on boots though, not quite as successful - as I feel it can soften them too much so that they stretch excessively/more than is desirable] 

For belts 'Neats Foot Oil' seemed to work particularly well and made them nice and supple - never tried to spit and polish them afterwards though.

Just my experience.

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Please do not use Neats Foot Oil. 

 

On relatively new leathers, which are being worked regularly it has specific, successful applications. On old military leather it is a disaster. It makes the leather go black, causes serious decay to the structure because of PH inbalance, stains other objects as the oil leaches into objects in contact with the leather and when it ultimately dries out (year or so latter) the leather is much harder and more brittle.

 

There have been other threads on this subject, with lots of good advice. But neats foot oil, Dubbin and saddle soap are all a disaster for hundred year old leather. 

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8 hours ago, Chasemuseum said:

 

 

There have been other threads on this subject, with lots of good advice. But neats foot oil, Dubbin and saddle soap are all a disaster for hundred year old leather. 

 

Agreed it really is not good!   

 

Professionally and personally I  use PEL Leather Dressing (it really is wonderful stuff) followed by the ubiquitous Renaissance wax and this combination works wonders! 

 

 

https://www.preservationequipment.com/Catalogue/Cleaning-Products/Cleaning-Agents/Leather-Dressing-Preservative-Restorer-P532-0875

 

Not cheap, but it works wonders and goes a very long way. 

 

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I have a brittle German WW1 belt that I treated with this stuff. It's perfect  but mot mentioned in other threads. Has anyone else used it? Amazon stock it.

20191210_103358.jpg

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3 hours ago, morrisc8 said:

 

No problem. Yes this stuff is also superb as are the other 3 similar bottled cleaners, conditioners and restorers .

 

I don't have shares in PEL (honest), but from experience, the products I have used from them really have worked wonders on my private collection and the Museums collection.   

 

Regards

Toby

Edited by Toby Brayley
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On 09/12/2019 at 23:30, Chasemuseum said:

Please do not use Neats Foot Oil. 

 

On relatively new leathers, which are being worked regularly it has specific, successful applications. On old military leather it is a disaster. It makes the leather go black, causes serious decay to the structure because of PH inbalance, stains other objects as the oil leaches into objects in contact with the leather and when it ultimately dries out (year or so latter) the leather is much harder and more brittle.

 

There have been other threads on this subject, with lots of good advice. But neats foot oil, Dubbin and saddle soap are all a disaster for hundred year old leather. 

 

I could not agree more. Any kind of oil or oil-based product needlessly wrecks the character of old leather. Dubbin and saddle soap leave a residue, dry out, and crack. There is a product called Cellugel (search this forum) used by book conservators that stabilises red rot and won't darken or otherwise affect leather. I have no experience of PEL so can't comment on that, but I do know that Cellugel does the job properly and it's the only thing I would ever use on antique leather.

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  • Admin

Ko.cho.line by Carr & Day & Martin works well. It may darken very light coloured leather. Regards, Bob.

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I'm getting quite used the naughty corner. Not least we talk about the great forthcoming festival with trees, lights, there's fat - sorry girth challenged - gentleman in need of a shave in Liverpool colours and, not least, there are no politico correctos and we generally have fun. 

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2 hours ago, David Filsell said:

Does elephant leather ever need cleaning?

That's an intimidating tub of cream

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1 hour ago, David Filsell said:

I'm getting quite used the naughty corner. Not least we talk about the great forthcoming festival with trees, lights, there's fat - sorry girth challenged - gentleman in need of a shave in Liverpool colours and, not least, there are no politico correctos and we generally have fun. 

And quite rightly too.

Careful now. Let's keep on topic.

The "museum quality " tag line sold it to me and the blurb on the tin helped. My 100 year old belt has benefited from its application. Stitching unaffected. 

Dave

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What can be achieved using some of the above mentioned products. Thankfully my work training has given me some great opportunities to work with them on various types of leather, It was until only recently that this work would have to have been done by a professional leather restorer. 

 

I have just acquired a 1900 dated New Zealand Marked brown leather 1882 style ammunition pouch that has been ravaged by the dreaded red rot. It does provide the perfect opportunity to demonstrate what can be done. 

 

1. The pouch, as you can see very poor condition the it is very dry, brittle and is covered in red rot.

IMG_20191217_183436.jpg.e2c01e44174c30d632de4cb218c44f8f.jpg

 

2. Applying the cellugel with a very soft bristle brush. I make sure to dab it and not brush, brushing  will lift of chunks of the leather making its appearing worse. Cellugel is only for use on the areas affected by red rod, it is not to be used as a treatment or "food" for any other areas IMG_20191217_183530.jpg.1744cab703199ea850fdc427276d059f.jpg

 

3.  The final result.  After letting the cellugel do its thing I apply the PEL Leather Dressing (mentioned earlier in the thread) to all the areas of the pouch, this makes the leather supple and soft Once  complete and left for a while, I then finish off with Renaissance Wax.  Although far from brand new, the once incurable red rot is now stable and touchable and will no longer spread and the pouch is much safer to handle and with further TLC will last for another 120 years.  IMG_20191217_191339.jpg.29ccc425ad853f70bbcf05b4f06f59c2.jpg

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Toby,

 

Very nice demo of using the right tools for the job—well done!

 

Regards,

JMB

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