1902 Service dress jacket 'darts'

[Paul61]

I'm on the lookout for a 1902 service dress jacket for my collection and have been trying to learn as much about them as possible. One thing I have noticed while looking at various original jackets is a difference in the stitching technique. You'll have to forgive my explanation of this as I don't know the technical terms but when you look at the sewn in pleats or darts near the collar some jackets have these raised or standing proud of the jacket while on others the pleats are flush with the rest of the cloth and you can see the stitching. The same sort of stitching can be seen around the rifle patches at the shoulders. Other details such as the white reinforcing strips and pocket material can otherwise be seen on both kinds of jacket. My query is, are both jacket styles just a difference in manufacturing techniques or are the 'flush' stitching jackets a reproduction? I hope that makes sense, thanks for any help with this one,

 

Paul

[gordon92]

All of my jackets have the raised stitching.  I am sure someone with a more global view on your question will be along shortly.  Would be helpful if you could supply photo examples to make sure readers are understanding your descriptions.

[Paul61]

Thanks for the reply, they're not great but here's a couple of photos to hopefully demonstrate what I mean, first phot is raised stitching, second is flush, cheers, 

 

Paul

Edited 17 June , 2018 by Paul61
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[Paul61]

Has anyone come across the sort of stitching on a service dress jacket shown in the second photo at all, any opinion whether WW1, post war or repro? Cheers,

 

Paul

[gordon92]

As noted before, I have never seen the flush stitching example.  Seems very possible that it is repro.  Very late war and post war had single pleats.  What does the inside of the jacket in the second photo look like?  Any markings or labels?  If you could show a photo of the inside that would help further assessment.

[wainfleet]

I think that what you call raised stitching and flush stitching are probably the same thing, the only difference being that the fold in the material is less obvious in the latter case. "Raised" darts are typical but I wouldn't dismiss a "flush stitched" jacket on that basis alone. If the overall configuration and materials are correct with no evidence of alterations like switching the lining material, then you are probably fairly safe.

 

The best way to learn is to handle original items. Once you've seen a few close up, later and repro ones are prettty easy to spot. Good luck with the search and if you can combine persistence with caution and avoid wishful thinking, you will get a good one eventually.

[Paul61]

Thanks for the replies guys, I don't have any other photos of the second 'flush' stitched jacket but here are some from a jacket that sold recently on ebay and is almost identical.The double darts, white reinforcement material, pocket material and stampings all look ok to me but I have limited experience in this field. Anyway , these are clearer photos and any comments would be appreciated, cheers,

Paul

[wainfleet]

In terms of construction and materials that is a typical Great War SD jacket. Unusually, it's had collar badges which look like grenades so either it's a Fusilier regiment, which did sometimes wear collar badges during the war, or has been issued to Canadian troops.  

[Paul61]

They do seem to be pretty much identical to the raised stitching type so I guess it must just be a manufacturing difference, be interesting to see a wartime picture of one being worn, something to keep an eye out for, thanks for the comments,

 

Paul