182 CEF Posted 9 June , 2003 Share Posted 9 June , 2003 Do not use WD40. This will, after a length of time, turn to a wax. This wax will eat away at metal and cause more damage. Either put a light coat of "gunoil" on if, or if you have properly removed all moisture, clear coat it with a "plastic" clear coat,. Dean Owen also if you have smaller more delicate items, after drying them, I use a coat of clear nail polish to protect them. This will also hep strengthen the item. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Patrick Mooney Posted 10 June , 2003 Share Posted 10 June , 2003 Egbert, Go down to Southern States or Home Depot and look in the paint department for Linseed Oil - used the Boiled Linseed Oil, as the Raw Linseed Oil actually never dries and stays sticky tacky for eons... Linseed Oil is an additive for paint and various wood finishes, which is then rubbed in to get that grand deep luster finish. I use it on many of 18th Century handmade furniture pieces that I make when I am NOT on this Forum.... Patrick (forum addict in Virginia) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
egbert Posted 11 July , 2003 Author Share Posted 11 July , 2003 I want to continue this thread in order to share with artifact collectors an astonishing method how to repair a broken, rusted, rotten piece of WWI artifact. Sadly you will discover what happened to my Luger after too much good wire brushing Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
egbert Posted 11 July , 2003 Author Share Posted 11 July , 2003 Now, what to do? It happened that I talked to an automotive mechanic. He advised me of a method he uses when bonding cracked motor blocks, any kind of metal, rusted, old, ugly. I rushed to an Automotive Store and bought the right stuff as depicted below. It is terrific steel-reinforced adhesive sealant which actually is a knead able epoxy bonding: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
egbert Posted 11 July , 2003 Author Share Posted 11 July , 2003 I taped the 2 metals and than applied the kneaded stuff. It is hard within 2 minutes, ready to rumble in 60 minutes. That is what I did next: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
egbert Posted 11 July , 2003 Author Share Posted 11 July , 2003 This is the condition after removing the tape after 5 minutes: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
egbert Posted 11 July , 2003 Author Share Posted 11 July , 2003 hip hip, the Luger is saved Hope to make some of you folks happy with your broken artifacts! I strongly recommend this method: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NIGEL Posted 15 October , 2004 Share Posted 15 October , 2004 I have just come across this fasinating thread, and i can tell you Egbert that the posting to the referrence of using diluted hydrochloric acid is correct as that is what they use in factories to burn rust off steel and iron before plating with zinc and galvanising, a ratio of 27% proof springs to memory, but at that strength i can tell you the rust is gone in seconds and the tank fizz's. Afterwards the item has to be well washed in clean warm water and a mild alkaline solution just to kill any acid residues. Then you have to cover the steel in something to stop it rusting again, i dont know about wd40 as it tends to evaporate, but maybe gun oil maybe thin enough to cover and protect Can i just add before anybody tries this on stuff they may find in the future Hydrochloric acid is evil, and will go through your skin in seconds aswell, so unless you know what you are doing dont bother Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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