gnr.ktrha Posted 20 February , 2014 Share Posted 20 February , 2014 Hello, After much searching I have managed to find a No8 Vickers Ammo box. The metalwork is in not too bad condition, although at present the middle hinge on the lid is ceased, but I will work on that. Hoping WD40 or Coke might do the trick. My main question is that the box still had both it's original leather handles on it. One has snapped at the point where it is riveted to the box. Both handles are very, very dry and twisted. Is there anything that I can do to maintain them or improve them. I have rubbed a little brown boot polish into them, and this has helped a little. The leather fastening strap and tab are off, but inside the box. I may, at some point, cut and rivet replacement ones onto the box, but I am not too sure as I do not like items that have been mucked about with and as the box is just for a static display I am not too worried about it. Also, where would a date and makers mark usually be on the box, there is nothing obvious showing on my one. Regards, Stewart Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DJM Posted 20 February , 2014 Share Posted 20 February , 2014 Neatsfoot oil or saddle soap (which contains Neatsfoot oil, lanolin and beeswaxm, I believe) are beloved by the horse-riding fraternity for cleaning and conditioning leather products, and can certainly be used to soften leather. From memory (my sister rode horses >30 years ago) Neatsfoot oil will darken the colour of the leather, and like other leather conditioners, once you start using it you need to keep using it to keep the leather supple, or it will dry out and you'll be worse off than you were. Caution, however, as this is a suggestion about reconditioning any old bits leather, and the hard-core museum curator types may be having coniptions as they read this as it could be equivalent to varnishing a rifle stock? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Greg Posted 22 February , 2014 Share Posted 22 February , 2014 Try 'Sno Seal' available on ebay . It is based on beeswax and has less tendency to darken leather in my experience. It softens leather really well and waterproofs it too. If you have to 'break' a pair of shoes/ boots I would recommend it over dubbin. Greg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobL Posted 22 February , 2014 Share Posted 22 February , 2014 Pecard is a favourite of mine and seems to be highly suited for use on old leather - I use it for both new and old leather, it did a great job on the small leather tabs on a load of Hotchkiss .303 boxes I had Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gnr.ktrha Posted 22 February , 2014 Author Share Posted 22 February , 2014 Hi folks, Thanks for your thoughts. Can you get any of these recommended products in the UK online? Regards, Stewart Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DJM Posted 23 February , 2014 Share Posted 23 February , 2014 Hi Stewart - I'm sure your local saddlery or agricultural supplier would sell saddle soap or Neatsfoot oil. I grew up in the west country when stag hounds and fox hounds were still allowed to ply their trade, so equestrian gear was readily available, but I'm sure that there must be somewhere in Blaigowrie catering to the pony club industry? SnoSeal is a beeswax-based proofing for mountain boots which waterproofs but does not soften the leather - it was developed for use on boots that had to take crampons, so it was important that it didn't soften them. I've used it on boots for years but wouldn't suggest it as a softener. Not familar with Pecard I'm afraid. DJM Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gnr.ktrha Posted 23 February , 2014 Author Share Posted 23 February , 2014 Hi DJM, Will try a saddle maker I know in Perth tomorrow. Thanks for all of your help and advice. Regards, Stewart Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Finneran Posted 28 February , 2014 Share Posted 28 February , 2014 Look at either end of the ammo box, there isalways a maker and date if WWI - even the Australian twin lid No 8s have raised stamp dates etc. Mark ps I use an Australian leather feed on my leather and so far (30 years on) all is good but environmental conditions are important. [/url] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andrew Upton Posted 28 February , 2014 Share Posted 28 February , 2014 Look at either end of the ammo box, there is always a maker and date if WWI - even the Australian twin lid No 8s have raised stamp dates etc. It's true in the majority of cases, but it is not always true - several years ago I had the opprtunity to very carefully handle (and photograph) an example of a No.6 ammunition box that had been extremely well preserved, being in virtually mint condition for it's age. Being a No.6 meant it can only date between very late 1915 or March 1916 when manufacture of No.6's and No.7's (which had also been introduced by then) completely ceased in favour of the improved No.8 and No.9 boxes. However despite my very careful examination there was absolutely no evidence whatsoever to suggest it had ever carried any sort of markings, stamped raised or otherwise, and believe me I was looking for them! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard Fisher Posted 4 March , 2014 Share Posted 4 March , 2014 There could be raised stamping (most common) but smaller impressed stamps are occasionally used, particularly on the No. 6. I don't know if you have 'Countrywide' stores near you but they are good for low-cost neatsfoot. I'm gradually using it on all my dry leatherwork and it's restoring it well. Rich Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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