Somme & Ypres report!.

[Drummy]

Just returned from an excellent week long stay on the Somme, went with my fiancee and took my parents, and also the future in laws, to various sites on the Somme & Ypres, aswell as a day in Paris (the trains from Albert, via Amiens, to Paris are excellent, and on time to the minute).

At Ypres, we visited, amongst other places, Tyne Cot, Langemark, Passchendaele, Hooge Crater Museum, IFF & Sanctuary Wood museum. The first two museums I found to be excellent. The highlight of the day was a visit to the Passchendaele museum at Zonnebeke, I thought this was a superb museum, well laid out and presented each battle very well, plus the trench & dug out was very good. Menin Gate, my second trip to Ypres, but first time watching the last post ceremony. It made me feel very proud to see the fallen honoured by the Belgians this way. Followed this with a very good meal at the Poppy restaurant located nearby. Also got to see the trench at Boezinge, well worth visiting and amazing how it has been preserved in the middle of the industrial estate now built up around the area (well done 'the diggers')

Bad points at Ypres, I must say that the most expensive museum to visit, that is Sanctuary Wood, was in my opinion very poor. I say that because I found that the exhibits were poorly labelled and appeared uncared for, also WW2 exhibits were with WW1 exhibits, out of context. There are some very interesting pieces on display but with some thought, they could be displayed far better. A british wagon is at the back, which from memory has a plaque on it saying it was refurbished by the British Army in 1990(?) but now looks in poor condition. That is my second visit to this museum, I will not be returning to this museum!

On a sad note I noticed that one 'wing' of the Menin Gate memorial seemed to be a congregating point for local youths, and had some graffitti daubed on the panels (near the London Regt panels I think??).

To recommend some food / drink stop offs on the Somme I would suggest Tommy's cafe at Pozieres, where you can get a good feed and the odd battlefield relic, There were a number of relic German helmets and a British helmet for sale when I visited. Also Ocean Villa's tea rooms, which is a worth while stop off if you are near Auchonvillers. As for night life, well Albert is still lacking in that department, I would recommend 'Le Stromboli' in Bapaume for a meal. Great food and atmosphere, however you need to book.

The memorials & cemeteries we visited were all in fantastic condition, we also all paid our respects at the grave of my Fiancee's great grandather (Pte H Birtles, 21st Manchester's) at Serre No.2. I noted that they seem to be doing more work at Beaumont Hamel memorial park and some type of snack shop has been erected near the car park. We visited numerous sites of interest throughout the Somme and I was interested to see WW2 British/Commonwealth graves at Albert Communal Cemetery & London Cemetery (from 1940 and the advance in 1944, aswell as Air Force).

I was intrigued to see the Trench Mortar next to the recycling point near to Longueval church, does anyone know why it is not sited in a more prominent or fitting location, i.e. a museum or in the vicinity of Delville Wood visitor's centre?

Had a look at some sites around Arras (which also has good restaurants and bars) but unfortunately did not have time to visit the Arras memorial. Went to the Chemin des Dames, again unfortunately did not get chance to do the tour at the Caverne Du Dragon, which last 1hr 30 mins, will definately do this on the next visit. The views from this area are fantastic.

Yesterday was the last day, which we finished by a vist to sunken lane, Hawthorn ridge and then Serr No.2 before travelling back up the motorway to Calais and coming off at Boulogne and after dinner there, took the coast road to Calais. The weather was perfect and views over to England great. We stopped at Batterie Todt museum (a WW2 museum in one of the casemate's of a German cross channel battery) before visitng the wine warehouse at Calais and stocking up! Stayed at Dover last night and rounded the holiday off with a visit to Dover castle and the WW2 secret tunnels where Admiral Ramsay directing Operation Dynamo.

I have a couple of questions if anyone can answer them:

1. There is a CWGC type headstone for a Newfoundland man, William Brown (I think his name is) who died in the 1950's and is buried at Auchonvillers Communal Cemetery, does anyone know this significance of this, a veteran?

2. In Devonshire Cemetery, there is a CWGC headstone bearing only a cross but no words at all, I have never noticed such a headstone in all the cemeteries/plots I have visited, what does this indicate.

[Paul Reed]

I have a couple of questions if anyone can answer them:

1. There is a CWGC type headstone for a Newfoundland man, William Brown (I think his name is) who died in the 1950's and is buried at Auchonvillers Communal Cemetery, does anyone know this significance of this, a veteran?

2. In Devonshire Cemetery, there is a CWGC headstone bearing only a cross but no words at all, I have never noticed such a headstone in all the cemeteries/plots I have visited, what does this indicate.

Nice to see you in Delville Wood the other day.

To answer:

1. He was once the curator/park-keeper of the Newfoundland Park. He 'died on service' and was buried here by his family.

2. This indicates a 'communal grave' i.e. a mass grave of two or more burials. There are several stones surrounding it with 2+ names on each and no room for a religious symbol, so in the 20s IWGC put up a headstone in the middle with just a cross on. It is not that uncommon and always indicates a burial of this type; it can be seen in many of the Beaumont-Hamel area cemeteries, but is rarer at Ypres for some reason.

Hope that helps!?

[Drummy]

Many thanks Paul, well you learn something every day, much appreciated. Sorry I did not get chance to chat for long with you at Delville wood. Hopefully next time I'm over we can meet up for a beer.

By the way, your book 'Walking the Somme' was a great help.

Thanks Neil.

[Paul Reed]

Thanks Neil - no worries, see you next time!

[Guest AmericanDoughboy]

Drummy,

Sancturary Wood's highlight isn't the tiny little museum, but it is the trenches in the back. However, I must say that I thoroughly enjoyed looking at the three-dimensional photographs in those little photo-boxes.

-Doughboy