trajan Posted 13 March , 2012 Share Posted 13 March , 2012 Hi one and all, I have two metal scabbards with bad dents, one an ersatz, the other a Lebel. An enquiry on the GBForum about how to remove these came up with an ingenous-sounding solution apparently applied to removing dents in cars after they have been hit by hail stones (hey, everything's bigger in the US of A - unless pressed sheet steel in cars is thinner!). Namely, heat the affected area with a hair dryer, and then cool it suddently with freezing air/water, after which the dent 'pops out' (quote/unqoute). Well, I get the idea (while not understanding the mechancal factors involved), and I can enviage using the approach when my other half and nippers are out - hair dryer in the kitchen then stick the warmed scabbard in the freezer... But before doing this, does anyone on GWForum have any comments? Any at all will be greatly appreciated! Trajan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
auchonvillerssomme Posted 13 March , 2012 Share Posted 13 March , 2012 Larger dents in metal bayonet or sword scabbards are usually put there on purpose by the serviceman for 2 reasons, one it stops the blade rattling in the scabbard, and it holds it in more securely. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
truthergw Posted 13 March , 2012 Share Posted 13 March , 2012 Something that works on an area of about a square metre ( very roughly) may not succeed on a small and sharp curved piece of metal like a scabbard. I don't suppose it will harm it though so you can only try. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pavster1980 Posted 13 March , 2012 Share Posted 13 March , 2012 Hello I have seen this done using a can or compressed air as the coolant Rich Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trajan Posted 13 March , 2012 Author Share Posted 13 March , 2012 ... Larger dents in metal bayonet or sword scabbards are usually put there on purpose by the serviceman for 2 reasons, one it stops the blade rattling in the scabbard, and it holds it in more securely. "Yeah, but, I mean, yeah, but..." Meaning, point taken , BUT the 'but' here is that: (I), the ersatz scabbard was bought as a spare, and has the sawback throat, but although I can get my 98/05's ohne sawbacks into it I can't get my scabbardless sawback 98/05 more than 2/3rd's there because of the dent, which resists the teeth; and (II), the Lebel came with a scabbard but the patina marks indicate that it has for a long time been 1/8th out of the scabbard (as it is now) because of the dents lower down, and I would like to get it in a little bit further... if you get my drift! Trajan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pbrydon Posted 13 March , 2012 Share Posted 13 March , 2012 Somebody once told me of a way to get dents out of metal sword scabbards which involved filling the scabbard with sand to just above the dent and then tapping a flat metal object with something heavy ( a hammer ? ) on the surface of the sand.The theory being that the pressure created on the sand will force out the dents. Whilst I was assured that this works,I would not recommend this method unless someone is able to confirm that they have used it and that it works. P.B. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trajan Posted 13 March , 2012 Author Share Posted 13 March , 2012 ... Somebody once told me of a way to get dents out of metal sword scabbards which involved filling the scabbard with sand to just above the dent.... That sounds plausible - just! The one apparently guaranteed way of achieving my desired aim - or so I have been told - is to do what they used to do. Make a metal blank the exact same size as the bayonet, heat the scabbard (I gather from a photo I have seen that the Germans in WWI used a blow torch), then hammer the blank in, and bob's your uncle! BUT, I certainly don't want to use a blowtorch on one of my scabbards (would a hair-dryer work?), and I don't really want to risk getting a blank stuck in either of them... Trajan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reese williams Posted 15 March , 2012 Share Posted 15 March , 2012 I don't think a hair dryer is going to generate any where near the amount of heat you'll need. Also you don't want to put the scabbard in the freezer, you just want to rapidly cool the spot of the dent. The way scabbards are/were repaired by armourers was as described above. A mandrel shaped to the dimensions of the inside of the scabbars, not the shape of the blade, is forced into the scabbard. Once in place the dents can be hammered out against the mandrel. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
auchonvillerssomme Posted 15 March , 2012 Share Posted 15 March , 2012 "Yeah, but, I mean, yeah, but..." Meaning, point taken , BUT the 'but' here is that: (I), the ersatz scabbard was bought as a spare, and has the sawback throat, but although I can get my 98/05's ohne sawbacks into it I can't get my scabbardless sawback 98/05 more than 2/3rd's there because of the dent, which resists the teeth; and (II), the Lebel came with a scabbard but the patina marks indicate that it has for a long time been 1/8th out of the scabbard (as it is now) because of the dents lower down, and I would like to get it in a little bit further... if you get my drift! Trajan Thats what you need.....a drift! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TonyE Posted 15 March , 2012 Share Posted 15 March , 2012 Exactly the same method using a mandrel was used to repair bren gun magazines. Regards TonyE Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trajan Posted 16 March , 2012 Author Share Posted 16 March , 2012 Thats what you need.....a drift! And now for something a little more serious - thanks for the suggestions re: using a mandrel - just not happy about the using the hammer bit! Oh, and Reese, thanks for advice re: heating and then "you just want to rapidly cool the spot of the dent": this sounds like the voice of experience speaking - is that so? Cheers and thanks everyone, Trajan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dickiek Posted 16 March , 2012 Share Posted 16 March , 2012 And now for something a little more serious - thanks for the suggestions re: using a mandrel - just not happy about the using the hammer bit! Oh, and Reese, thanks for advice re: heating and then "you just want to rapidly cool the spot of the dent": this sounds like the voice of experience speaking - is that so? Cheers and thanks everyone, Trajan As a ex engineer by trade and worked with metals most of my life, the mild steel of the scabbard will be worked without the use of any heat....As above, you will need to make a mandrel and gently tap it into the scabbard, this will force out the dent, then gently hit the dent with a set of car body working hammers, there is a flat hammer to do this type of job. Don't forget to leave enough length of the mandrel to be able to pull it out.... Dickie Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trajan Posted 16 March , 2012 Author Share Posted 16 March , 2012 Thanks Dickie! Just one more question about the mandrel... Would an aluminium one work or do I need a steel version? Or even, perhaps, a suitable hard wood? I'm just wondering what I can get hold of and where - yes, Turkey is still full of artisans of all trades, but it's a question of finding the right one and the right material... Trajan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ph0ebus Posted 16 March , 2012 Share Posted 16 March , 2012 Thanks Dickie! Just one more question about the mandrel... Would an aluminium one work or do I need a steel version? Or even, perhaps, a suitable hard wood? I'm just wondering what I can get hold of and where - yes, Turkey is still full of artisans of all trades, but it's a question of finding the right one and the right material... Trajan Just be sure to use a mandREL, and not a MandRILL: The latter don't take too kindly to being hit with hammers... Keep us posted on the results! -Daniel Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trajan Posted 16 March , 2012 Author Share Posted 16 March , 2012 ...The latter don't take too kindly to being hit with hammers... Well, that nose makes him look a wee bit on the hammered side - perhaps after a few 'boilermakers'???!!! Trajan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dickiek Posted 16 March , 2012 Share Posted 16 March , 2012 Thanks Dickie! Just one more question about the mandrel... Would an aluminium one work or do I need a steel version? Or even, perhaps, a suitable hard wood? I'm just wondering what I can get hold of and where - yes, Turkey is still full of artisans of all trades, but it's a question of finding the right one and the right material... Trajan You would need to make one from a peice of steel bar as it will take the knocking....aluminium would be a little too soft, so would a hard wood. I've made some up in the past and used them....If you have problems, I might be able to help you out. Cheers Dickie Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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