Service Dress Tunics Querie

[Lachlan]

I've noticed that apart from utility tunics lacking pleats on pockets and reinforcing patches on shoulders, there were tunics with different style collars, which seem to have appeared on tunics on pleated and unpleated pockets. Some tunics had brass buttons up to the bottom of the collar line, while others have the top button within the collar line. I have surmised that it had something to do with how the collar was worn.

My query is, I recall tunics (like one I had in my collection) which not only had hooks and eyes to fasten the throat but also on the turn-down part of the collar so that it could be worn close to the throat if desired. Were tunics manufactured without the hooks and eyes on the turn-down part of the collar, so that it was always "splayed" ? If so, was that the reason the top brass button moved further up to the throat ?

[Peter Doyle]

In my experience, the wide variation in collar styles is down to tailoring by the soldiers themselves. In all the SD jackets I've owned there are great variations. The standard type tends to have the collar points 'splayed' as you mention; this is as issued. But I've also commonly encountered collars that have been removed and re-applied, so that they have a neater appearance, and these commonly have extra hook and eye fittings. How these modifications were viewed officially, I have no idea!

Cheers

Peter

[FROGSMILE]

In my experience, the wide variation in collar styles is down to tailoring by the soldiers themselves. In all the SD jackets I've owned there are great variations. The standard type tends to have the collar points 'splayed' as you mention; this is as issued. But I've also commonly encountered collars that have been removed and re-applied, so that they have a neater appearance, and these commonly have extra hook and eye fittings. How these modifications were viewed officially, I have no idea!

Cheers

Peter

I agree Peter and from talking with veterans when I was a young lad it was something that was started largely by Regulars, as it gave more of the look of the collar widely fitted to pre-war tunics and frocks of all kinds, and, as you say, was viewed as a much smarter appearance. Battalion tailors would often carry out these modifications using hooks and eyes and sometimes even cutting off and re-shaping the collar just as you have described. An ambitious young NCO might do this to cut a dash, but also men of all ranks who wanted a 'best tunic' for walking out. Once immersed in the stark realities of trench routine and life preservation these idiosyncrasies were soon forgotten, but in the period leading up to deployment overseas they were very common.

[Lachlan]

Here's 3 examples, 2 of which have "closed" collars with lower set top button :-

My Granddad James Gow

My Gt Uncle George Robertson

My Granddad Peter Montgomery

Is it just me (or the photo) or does Granddad Gow's tunic look to be cut from a smoother looking cloth ? Could just be the photo.

[FROGSMILE]

Here's 3 examples, 2 of which have "closed" collars with lower set top button :-

My Granddad James Gow

My Gt Uncle George Robertson

My Granddad Peter Montgomery

Is it just me (or the photo) or does Granddad Gow's tunic look to be cut from a smoother looking cloth ? Could just be the photo.

I have heard that some superior cloth versions were made in Canada under contract, but I do not know for sure. It does look a very fine cloth I agree.