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Advice on cleaning a bayonet


tamos123

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Hi All

I have an all steel bayonet that could do with a good clean, any tips or advice to how I could try to bring this back to its former glory. No rust just dull and grubby

All I can think of is wire wool but that would just scratch it?

thank you

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I would try wire wool, it should not scratch it. The best method would be a burnishing pad, we had them on the guns. It was a leather pad with chain mail stitched to it with a lot of elbow grease it imparts a very good shine.

John

P.S. I have a piece of chain mail I could let you have, Email me off Forum with your address and I will send it to you.

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What I use is Jif, or Cif as it's called now. I clean most metal items with it. However, what you use with it may vary. If it's a cap badge, I'd use Cif on a tooth brush. If it's brass webbing parts (with heavy tarnish), I'd use an automotive Loy block (One of those sponges with wet and dry sandpaper on it). It's dead good and removes 90 years of crud without ruining the finish.

I can hear those anti restorers now.....

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I have a bayonet which was rust-free when I got it but which looked a bit sorry for itself. I had a particular reason for making it shiny and I cleaned it with wire wool and gave it a final going over with Solvol metal cleaning paste.

Tom

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Go into a car parts shop and ask for a scotchbrite pad and use it.

Tom.

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Go into a car parts shop and ask for a scotchbrite pad and use it.

Tom.

OK - From a collector's Point of view :

1) abrasives such as scotcpads or like materials is generally not recommended.

2) Fine # 0000 steel wool is almost always the best tool, used with a good rust busting oil.

I use on small arms and bayonets fine steel wool, I also have on hand small stainless steel toothbrushes which work well for specific tasks.

The oil I use is KROIL. It is absolutely the best rust loosening penetrant oil I have encountered and when used copiously with steel wool does an excellent job cleaning off rust to fuzzy patinated rust. Now of course such a light oil you want to keep off any wood - it's simply not good for original wood finishes.

Most types of bayonets you will need to make spanner wrenches for the grips' esteuchon nuts and/or screw bolts. I have made sets

for the British P07 and german 84/98 and 98/05 type bayonets as they use spanner nuts to hold the grips on, and they can be quite the ****** to get off without damaging them or the grips.There are some tricks though one can utilize tomake the job easier and safer.

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Try using what I use on my Harley - Autosol. Most car accessory shops stock the stuff. All you do is apply it with a cloth and work it in..... allow it to dry a little then buff it up. If it takes tar off of a shiney exhaust, it'll remove 90 years of crud.

Autosol is about £3-£5 per tube - about toothpaste size - and you can use as little or a much as you need.

It'll leave a great finish too.

Les.

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You could try 'Peek' - I think its more of a metal polish but I've used it n a few different non-war related things and it did a good job. Comes in a silver tube - a bit like a tube of toothpaste.

turns out its on the internet:

http://www.caswellplating.com/aids/peek.html

And also comes in mousse form - the things you learn!

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Try using what I use on my Harley - Autosol. Most car accessory shops stock the stuff. All you do is apply it with a cloth and work it in..... allow it to dry a little then buff it up. If it takes tar off of a shiney exhaust, it'll remove 90 years of crud.

Autosol is about £3-£5 per tube - about toothpaste size - and you can use as little or a much as you need.

It'll leave a great finish too.

Les.

Just a word of warning on Autosol - when I was at Sandhurst we were warned specifically not to use it to clean the working parts of our SLRs (a shame because it brings them up a treat and avoids hours of elbow grease with scotchbrite!)

However, one unfortunate cadet :( chose to ignore the warning and cleaned his rifle with it just before Xmas leave. On return in the New Year the metal had sweated, reacted with the autosol and formed a hard immovable crust on all the working parts rendering the rifle BLR (Beyond Local Repair) he was fined £300 and lucky not to get back-termed or even kicked out!

moral of the story - use autosol with care and do not cover the item and leave it for any length of time after use.

hope this helps

regards

David

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Just a word of warning on Autosol - when I was at Sandhurst we were warned specifically not to use it to clean the working parts of our SLRs (a shame because it brings them up a treat and avoids hours of elbow grease with scotchbrite!)

However, one unfortunate cadet  :(  chose to ignore the warning and cleaned his rifle with it just before Xmas leave.  On return in the New Year the metal had sweated, reacted with the autosol and formed a hard immovable crust on all the working parts rendering the rifle BLR (Beyond Local Repair) he was fined £300 and lucky not to get back-termed or even kicked out!

moral of the story - use autosol with care and do not cover the item and leave it for any length of time after use.

hope this helps

regards

David

Guys ; not to be a stick in the mud , but there is no real shortcut to a proper cleaning of a "crusty" old bayonet or weapon .Chemical 'cleaners and or polishing agents' are a shortcut that will get you snagged.The for example of the "autosol" is a good point.Most of these polishing agents are water or ammonia based...steel likes neither when left alone with it so to speak. Good old fashioned TLC with elbow grease and the proper steel wool and penetrant oil is simply the only route to go if you give a hoot about your item.

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