Sympathetic Bayonet Restoration for WW1 Pattern 1907

[navydoc16]

I write this to aid fellow collectors and those who just wish to “save” one of these old bayonets. I will write it specifically for my 1907 but many general steps can be attributed to other bayonets.

Between time spent, equipment and accessories the benefit is not necessarily financial - when comparing a cheaper poorer condition bayonet with a genuine good condition piece

The real benefit is to save a rare bayonet or save something that has personal meaning. 
 

To start the piece I am working on here is a particularly uncommon 1907 Pattern bayonet made by MOLE, the bayonet is of particular interest as it is part of a small ordered contract (total not specifically know at this stage) of used UK government refurbished arms sold to Iraq. These were officially marked with the “Triangle” JEEM.

I generally only collect pieces that are at least “good” in condition however had only ever seen one of these apart from this one and they are exceedingly uncommon so I needed to save it to have an example. 
 

As with all things, case selection is the most important aspect, some pieces are simply too far gone to save in any meaningful respect.

kind regards

g

Edited 30 August by navydoc16

[navydoc16]

To start with I have a small list of items I use, I will explain them below: 

- Acetone 

- Stock Pot 25L +

- Coffee French Press

- Hollow Ground Screwdriver

- Bayonet press stud remover 

- Bayonet grip bolts remover 

- Baby Oil

- “Blunt” screwdriver 

- Brass or copper brush (made from real brass not brass coated steal)

- Toothbrush

- Artist Grade Linseed Oil

- Clothes iron 

I have not included basics like rags and paper towels but you will need them too.

 

Edited 30 August by navydoc16

[navydoc16]

the tools I have are the original armours tools- ideally find those, but you can also hand grind tools to fit if you cannot find them or don’t wish to outlay. 
 

the bolt remover screwdriver and the hollow ground screwdriver can be custom made using a bench grinder and angle grinder

the easiest way to remove the press stud bolt without the correct tool is using a pair of right angle pliers or vice grips, using leather as a “sacrificial” piece.

[navydoc16]

On the workbench we can have a good look at some problem areas. 
 

stained grips, old rust pattern staining, active rust, a frozen press stud and loss of blueing (generally just a bit tired) 

the bayonet overall would be rated by most as “poor condition” and likely not worth looking at - again for me this is quite special bayonet for the markings and country - the bayonet scabbard is hand made and is made of two brazed German scabbards, surprising well fitting although very rough in construction overall

Edited 30 August by navydoc16

[navydoc16]

Removing the grips can be tricky but not impossible without a vice, take care to ensure the bayonet does not contact the edges of the steel vice - I use a Australian Dawn quick release carpenters vice, so the wood buffer prevents marring of the finish 

take care to the remove the grips, do not lever them out using a screwdriver or knife as that will damage them. I simply beat the pommel of the bayonet against a carpeted floor- this releases the grips and slowly they will vibrate out of the recess intact. 
 

take care removing the screw bolts, they can be “held in” to the grips by the shrunken wood, without care the wood can split. 
 

Underneath reveals the clean Enfield marked replacement grips that were put on during its refurbishment in 1924

 

[navydoc16]

To clean the bayonet of old oils I clean it multiple times with a micro fibre cloth soaked in acetone. This removed all the old oils from the rust and allows the next steps to proceed as required. 
 

The small parts and grips are transferred to the French press, the grips go under the filter as they float and the small parts go over so they can be removed without dunking hands in the acetone.

take care to buy a French press that is made of glass and not plastic, as the acetone will “eat” the plastic as it is a hydrocarbon. The grips I leave in all day, and when I remove them the acetone normally takes on a “tea” colour from all the excess oils and grease soaked into the wood being released 

this is part of the “sympathetic” part of the restoration as I won’t be damaging the wood by sanding it or cleaning - simply removing the finish and trying to bring out some of the staining and damage

 

Edited 30 August by navydoc16

[navydoc16]

In the mean time transfer the acetone cleaned bayonet, press studs and grip bolts to the stock pot filled with regular water, this process is very similar to “rust blueing” and is the main “sympathetic” part of the restoration as it maintains the original finish without the rust. 
 

in this process we “convert” the rust by boiling it approximately 45 minutes each side on “rolling boil”. This is time consuming so I do many at one time as pictured. 
 

You cannot “boil” these for too long, and sometimes they require multiple goes to attain a proper result. 
 

when these are removed from the water the “red” rust is now a “black” rust and the excess rust is now able to be removed from the bayonet carefully using a dull scraper and carded off using a pure brass bristle brush (most shoe stores sell these as “suede brushes”)

 

Edited 30 August by navydoc16

[peregrinvs]

Following with great interest. I’m very impressed you got those grip nuts undone without damaging anything.

[navydoc16]

@peregrinvs thank you for the kind words. It is not particularly hard

I simply turn the screws many many times to release the rust and carefully push back the wood to release the screws 

@Valius your bayonet has no grips so this is not an issue 

kind regards

g

[Valius]

@navydoc16 I appreciate the rundown on cleaning mate, when I’ve got some time spare I’ll see if I can’t give it a shot! 

[navydoc16]

Once removed it’s simply a matter of scraping the rust with the blunted screwdriver and brass brush on the blued surfaces 

the original markings began to reveal themselves as well as the new blueing created by boiling and carding the rust. it appears “splotchy” as there is two types of blueing present, but realistically there is little difference and now the rust is inactive, all is well. 
 

what has also showed up as well is a SOS mark, the official marking for sale from the UK to Iraq. It was not able to be seen as it was very feint before. 

[navydoc16]

I then begin work on the blade, again scraping on the deep rust, and cleaning up with a simple green scotchbrite pad- this will remove rust but not blueing unless very aggressive. 
 

note the pitting on some areas is very small, but I won’t be attempting to remove it

I use baby oil as a lubricant as it is not dangerous to the body, and does not deep into your skin unlike petroleum based oils I have used throughout my life that are harmful. Baby oil is also an excellent preservative for the bayonet and prevents rust. 

[navydoc16]

One final look at the markings after cleaning, you’ll note the line made by the scabbard is still present and the bayonet appears “original” and not to “restored” which can detract from its presentation and personality  

Edited 31 August by navydoc16

[navydoc16]

Next we move to the scabbard, it is a simple construction and modification but has since suffered from quite a bit of rust buildup and general detritus.

likewise I will boil this as per the bayonet blades

in order to preserve it I will “brown” it by leaving it to rust after boiling and then boiling and carding again to attain a “rust blue” finish. 

[Waddell]

What's the story with that scabbard Navydoc? Has it been lengthened? 

The welding isn't great either.

Scott 

[navydoc16]

@Waddell well it’s not factory! I am not sure, despite the appearance it has been quite professionally fitted but not professionally finished. There is no rattle and quite a bit of hand fitting to get it “right” 
 

also it is not “welded” in the traditional sense, it has been brass brazed - which is the most common style of welding in most third world regions throughout the 50s and 60s as it requires no electricity - so for brazing it is not bad at all, normally you would file it flush but in this case that would probably weaken it more as the inside has already been clearances for the blade, so the excess for strength needs to be on the outside 
 

it us two Czech style scabbards fitted back to back and brazed together, at some stage the original 1907 leather scabbard was likely damaged and it was replaced with this setup. In Iraq the Lee Enfield is still used to some extent in many regions of Demi-official government service. 

Kind regards

g

Edited 31 August by navydoc16

[Waddell]

11 minutes ago, navydoc16 said:

it us two Czech style scabbards fitted back to back and brazed together, at some stage the original 1907 leather scabbard was likely damaged and it was replaced with this setup. In Iraq the Lee Enfield is still used to some extent in many regions of Demi-official government service. 
 

Yes. Got it. Was trying to work out why you didn't replace it with a better scabbard. But if that is how they used it. so be it.

Keep going! It's interesting to watch.

Scott

 

Edited 31 August by Waddell
Added more.

[navydoc16]

@Waddell cheers mate,

 

well that’s how it came to the veteran who brought it back, and that’s how it later came to me- so tend not to play too much with them after that.

 

I actually do this all the time, just figured I would share the knowledge and method 

kind regards

g

Edited 31 August by navydoc16

[navydoc16]

Pulled the grips out of the acetone and this is the result, as you can see quite a bit lighter in colour 

next step we will look into touching up the dents and shrinkage in the timber