Italian Front

[ArmyOfficer]

I had a great impromptu trip to the Italian front last week. I was there on temporary duty to my new unit in Vicenza and because all the hotels in Vicenza were fully booked I stayed in Bassano Del Grappa - approximately 30 km northeast of there. One very late night while driving back to my hotel I was surprised to see two CWGC signs on the side of a road. I felt like they were two old friends.

I knew a British Corps had been moved to Italy in 1917 but had no clue that they were in the area. Ended up doing a very quick, impromptu drive thru what were then the rear areas of the British AO and then some Italian battlefields.

First, the CWGC cemetary in Dueville is actually a communal cemetary extension. Not well sign posted (the only sign I happened to see was off the post and on the ground) but if you go to the local cemetary you'll find it. Not many visitors there. Recommend a visit just to say pay your respects. No one seems to visit.

Next, Bassano Del Grappa sits at the base of Mt. Grappa and was the main supply base for Italian forces operating in defensive positions along its slopes. They have a local church that was converted to an ossuary in 1934. The church is now recognized as a war memorial by the Italian equivalent of the CWGC. This is a huge cathedral lined with tablets from floor to ceiling; all Italian fallen from the local areas.

I later took a drive from Bassano up to the Piave river line. One thing you'll notice (aside from the scenery) is how absolutely open and flat the Veneto is....almost reminded me of the area around Poperinghe. However, butting right up against the plain are the Dolomite mountains that canalize any approaches down to the river and plain. I saw few memorials until I got to the Piave and then there are a few memorial plaques (in Italian) which describe the local Italian defensive lines along this very wide, shallow river. Followed the Piave down to Treviso for a look for any remnants, trenches or pill boxes but saw nothing. Seems few remnants of the fighting but I had no guidebooks or maps.

Finally took a detour up to Asolo. No WWI connections visible but what an absolutely beautiful little village in the mountains. Sat outside at the Cafe Hemingway and had a beer looking far over the Veneto...and never ever wanted to leave.

From what I understand the major sites of British interest were about an hour north by Asiago but didn't have time to get up there.

I would recommend anyone go if you're ever in Venice for any business; its a beautiful area and seems to be almost forgotton from a WWI perspective.

If you do ever go, I can without a doubt recommend the Hotel Al Camin in Bassano. With almost 10 years living and traveling in Europe it has the best restaurant I have ever eaten in. I spent more on the food than I did my room.

Next time I go I'm getting a proper guide book and maps but this was kind of a neat impromptu trip.

[andigger]

Did you get ny pictures, even of the scenery?

Andy

[Paul Hederer]

Couldn't agree more with your views. I spent four months near Udine in the mid-90's and rented a car with a friend. We spent most of our free-time drinking wine or touring.

We covered the entire front, and all I can say is anyone taking the time to tour the Italian front will not be dissapointed--it combines historical interest, and beautiful scenery. Throw in a trip to Venice and some Alp activities and not a bad vacation for the family.

Paul