Rkymtnkat Posted 19 October , 2014 Share Posted 19 October , 2014 Help, please. I have inherited what was left of my dads collection of edged weapons. Problem was I found them in a wooden ammo crate stored outside by a tree. So now I have only been able to salvage a portion and I need to know how to prevent more rust and what is the best way to preserve the wood. What would be the best way to save these?? Plus are any of them worth something despite the rust damage? I have a Ross Rifle bayonet stamped patented 1907with scabbard that is in rough shape, a 1907 Wilkenson, Stamped WSC but no model number like S294 with blackened finish in nice shape w/ scabbard, US M3 Kinfolks inc knife and scabbard that has some rust issues, etc.. I may have done great value damage to a WWII Village blacksmith bolo with scabbard, I took a very fine grade nail file to the surface rust. It did not have much and seems in fine condition. Did I just turn it into a worthless collectors paperweight? Any and all suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sepoy Posted 19 October , 2014 Share Posted 19 October , 2014 It may have been best to soak the metalwork in something like WD40 and use very fine wire wool to see what happens. I am certain that even that method may be too rough for some. Sepoy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rkymtnkat Posted 19 October , 2014 Author Share Posted 19 October , 2014 Thank you I didn't know what type oil would be best on the blades without increasing the rust. Some of the leather that got wet and moldy went bye bye, it was toxic. I hope to find out if any of this is worth enough to take the time to clean. Ideas for the leather? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
manxsapper1915 Posted 19 October , 2014 Share Posted 19 October , 2014 I've been collecting bayonets for years and I use WD40 and very fine wire wool, bayonets are hardy souls and it won't damage them. Just soak them with WD over night and it gets a lot of the muck off. I wouldn't recommend using sand paper or files, as it encourages the bare metal to rust up. baz I use black or neutral boot polish on the leather scabbards, or Chelsea leather food. Baz Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rkymtnkat Posted 19 October , 2014 Author Share Posted 19 October , 2014 Thank you so much for the advice. I have lots of work ahead of me, if this is worth the time and effort. I am still trying to figure out where all the trench knifes with knuckle dusters went. But it would be nice to salvage a bit of dads collection. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rkymtnkat Posted 19 October , 2014 Author Share Posted 19 October , 2014 Any suggestions on finding out if any of these are worth the effort? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rkymtnkat Posted 19 October , 2014 Author Share Posted 19 October , 2014 I am curious to know about the 1907, Wilkenson, it has a nice black admiralty finish. I believe that would be from the WWII contract, everything I am finding on line has a few more marks, such as S294. This has the crown g.r. 1907 WSC and I believe date of 4 42. That is all on that side, is this a fake? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rkymtnkat Posted 19 October , 2014 Author Share Posted 19 October , 2014 I've been collecting bayonets for years and I use WD40 and very fine wire wool, bayonets are hardy souls and it won't damage them. Just soak them with WD over night and it gets a lot of the muck off. I wouldn't recommend using sand paper or files, as it encourages the bare metal to rust up. baz I use black or neutral boot polish on the leather scabbards, or Chelsea leather food. Baz You said they are hardy souls, could this mean I did not completely trash the Bolo by the light filing? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trajan Posted 20 October , 2014 Share Posted 20 October , 2014 You said they are hardy souls, could this mean I did not completely trash the Bolo by the light filing? Well, some are hardier than others! The suggestions for WD40 and steel wool are ok, although I use fine-grain rubbing 'wet' paper followed by a wipe and a finish with wirewool and then Autosol and a polish. I was taught this method by a professional antique sword restorer and it works well. But, I only use this for getting the worse rust and stains of a blade to check identifying marks, etc., as I like the patina on an old bayonet - and it does take some practice to get it right. The guy who taught me goes the whole way to end up with a really brightly shining blade. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
T8HANTS Posted 20 October , 2014 Share Posted 20 October , 2014 Edged tools are often returned to a good finish by using a ball of crumpled silver foil and 'Autosolv' type metal polish. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trajan Posted 20 October , 2014 Share Posted 20 October , 2014 Edged tools are often returned to a good finish by using a ball of crumpled silver foil and 'Autosolv' type metal polish. Interesting! I knew this worked on chrome, but not that it worked on steel. I'll try it with my favourite 'testing' piece, a really badly rusted and shortened EB 9... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
T8HANTS Posted 20 October , 2014 Share Posted 20 October , 2014 Interesting! I knew this worked on chrome, but not that it worked on steel. I'll try it with my favourite 'testing' piece, a really badly rusted and shortened EB 9... The silver foil method is a 2nd stage process, it won't cope with heavy rust - take that of first! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trajan Posted 20 October , 2014 Share Posted 20 October , 2014 The silver foil method is a 2nd stage process, it won't cope with heavy rust - take that of first! OK. I have a few other specimens stained rather than rusted ones that I can use for trying this method on. Thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sepoy Posted 20 October , 2014 Share Posted 20 October , 2014 I am curious to know about the 1907, Wilkenson, it has a nice black admiralty finish. I believe that would be from the WWII contract, everything I am finding on line has a few more marks, such as S294. This has the crown g.r. 1907 WSC and I believe date of 4 42. That is all on that side, is this a fake? The WSC S294 marked 1907 Pattern Sword Bayonet is a WW2 contract. It is not a fake. Sepoy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rkymtnkat Posted 20 October , 2014 Author Share Posted 20 October , 2014 First I must say thank you all of you for the information. Whew, I thought maybe I would be stuck with more hassles then enjoyment of bringing life back to these. I had never heard of Autosol. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rkymtnkat Posted 20 October , 2014 Author Share Posted 20 October , 2014 The WSC S294 marked 1907 Pattern Sword Bayonet is a WW2 contract. It is not a fake. Sepoy Oh my poor description is the problem is there is not a S294 mark, all the other marks on both sides are the legit ones. Just not a model. That is why I am wondering if it is fake. Hey, I am new to this and at least I got the rest of its age, finish, WW2 contract, correct. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trajan Posted 22 October , 2014 Share Posted 22 October , 2014 I had never heard of Autosol. Not easy to find though... Generally used for cleaning up chrome... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
T8HANTS Posted 22 October , 2014 Share Posted 22 October , 2014 I suspect that any paste type chrome/metal cleaner will do, but do test areas first before attacking the main item. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
manxsapper1915 Posted 22 October , 2014 Share Posted 22 October , 2014 A number of people have started recommending PEEK metal polish. I had a look at some of the online reviews and seem to be very good, especially on brass ware. Anyone used this product and was it as good as people say? Baz Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rkymtnkat Posted 23 October , 2014 Author Share Posted 23 October , 2014 Just for F.Y.I., if you ever come across bayonets with leather scabbards that have had mildew issues, use caution. The older the leather the more caustic the tanning process, add mold and it is dangerous. Skin and inhaling can be a problem. I wound up with the meanest case of hives for over a month just from opening the box unaware of its contents. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trajan Posted 23 October , 2014 Share Posted 23 October , 2014 Glad it passed over! But yes, mouldy leather may well have nasty spores... Why on earth, though, was all the stuff buried / neglected for so long? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Khaki Posted 17 November , 2015 Share Posted 17 November , 2015 resurrected this thread as it had reference to the bolo knife of the AEF and was just plain 'interesting', I dug out my M1910 bolo for you all to have a look at it is a 1917 dated Springfield made 1910 model with the locking button. The scabbard is 1918 by Brahuer bros. khaki Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
beestonboxer Posted 17 November , 2015 Share Posted 17 November , 2015 resurrected this thread as it had reference to the bolo knife of the AEF and was just plain 'interesting', I dug out my M1910 bolo for you all to have a look at it is a 1917 dated Springfield made 1910 model with the locking button. The scabbard is 1918 by Brahuer bros. khaki 1117151110.jpg 1117151112.jpg That's a beautiful looking Knife thanks for sharing. Some interesting pointers have been posted regarding care very helpful. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Khaki Posted 17 November , 2015 Share Posted 17 November , 2015 Glad you liked it, some of these old posts are well worth reading. regards khaki Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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