Jerkin Utility

[tocemma]

Always a good idea to google the Company on the labels. The thing most of the fake labels have in common is that the fakers have little knowledge of the correct nomenclature for some of these items, hence Jerkin Utility and Jackets Serge GS for instance. Many local history researchers have created web pages about some of these clothing companies. Although most are forgotten now, they were big news in their own districts, often employing hundreds and in some cases thousands of workers.

From googling Polikoff, it is clear that they had a major impact in the Rhondda valley, formed their own choir, had major works outings etc etc. Many of us over a certain age have probably unknowingly worn some of their products.

One of the key things to look for is the address and date combination which is often wrong. Many of my notes, based on observation and ownership of large amounts of kit over the years, were for the most part compiled using trade directories through local libraries. The notes are far from perfect but did give me some information. The internet has made this a lot easier. I would say that the first thing anyone should do is google the manufacturer, you can even do this via a mobile (cellphone) from an arms fair! This can often point out the most bogus fakes.

Unfortunately the learning curve for the fakers mirrors that of price increases. It is now very profitable to bodge up kit. In the past most of the fakery was confined to 'badge engineering' ie adding the insignia of more desirable units. I noticed even this week an 'MGC' Officers tunic, where the Officer 'had obviously served in an Artillery or Engineer unit before transferring' with the requisite multiple holes in lapels of course.

Cloth patches were often applied to enhance value. At one time these were usually obvious but I suspect they would be a lot harder to verify these days. I have seen some in the last couple of years that were very convincing, but almost certainly wrong.

Regards

Tocemma

[john in minnesota]

Regards size on an SD jacket label-how did the size number relate to the measurements-is there a table? Still interested to see variations of button used on the Jerkin. Regards, Paul.

Here are a couple large 1" leather buttons as used on the jerkins - showing the backside:

[wainfleet]

John

I've only ever seen the smooth buttons on jerkins. I have seen leather GS buttons on a few jackets though. It would be interesting to know if you or anyone has seen them on a jerkin.

Regards,

W.

[MartH]

As said before I would be very wary of using a printed label to establish provenance. Its quite amazing what a professional book restorer can do with old paper and old tea amongst other things.

[tocemma]

WF,

I had a really nice, almost mint jerkin at one time which had the crested buttons. Of course they could easily have been exchanged. Interestingly that particular jerkin had a boot lace running through all the rings and the loops on the back of the buttons for extra security presumably. I think I still have some photos, I'll dig them out. Not a common thing though I would say.

Tocemma

[Joe Sweeney]

Regards size on an SD jacket label-how did the size number relate to the measurements-is there a table? Still interested to see variations of button used on the Jerkin. Regards, Paul.

Paul,

Yes there is a size chart in AO10 1902. I have a copy, but not at hand.

It is only good up until 1915 when things changed.

Prior to 1914 there were only 18 sizes (even numbered to 36)

in 1915 the sizes reverted back to 36 sizes consecutively numbered.

Joe Sweeney

[Wardog]

Thanks Joe. I would be interested in the size tables for jackets and trousers if you can post them sometime. Posting a couple of buttons as I wonder if this type had any military usage? size 25mm roughly.

[wainfleet]

Paul

That type of leather button is quite often found on officers' tunics. Trying not to be conspicuous in the front line.

Regards,

W.

[Andrew Upton]

Posting a couple of buttons as I wonder if this type had any military usage? size 25mm roughly.

That type of leather button is quite often found on officers' tunics. Trying not to be conspicuous in the front line.

Not just in the frontline though:

http://www.kaisersbunker.com/cef/tunics/ceft02.htm

[Wardog]

Thanks Wainfleet. They are quite common and so I had thought they might have been used on jerkins. Officers kit not my thing and although I knew they used 'Football' type butons I had not realised it was this type. Expect they had civilian use as well. Will keep an eye open for the smooth buttons. Cheers, Paul.

[Wardog]

Sorry John, I neglected to thank you for your pictures. Your information on uniform matters is of benefit to us all. Best wishes, Paul.

[Roy Evans]

Will members please note the following forum rule:

"You will not make any statements that could be construed as defamatory of an individual, group or business."

Roy

[RobL]

Chaps, does anyone have anymore photos/information about the canvas jerkins? Were they designed for a specific theatre in 1917 or just owing to a material shortage?

[Joe Sweeney]

Rob,

Never found any specific issue instructions for the cloth Jerkin and I've looked in Issue scales for BEF, MEF, EEF, Italy and Salonika.

Have not looked in ACI's.

What I have found out is that:

Jerkins, double texture tan twill (pattern 9672/1917) was introduced on 11 September 1917. Construction details are exactly the same as that of the leather except the leather was replaced by cotton twill with the same leather covered wooden buttons being used. It’s not clear whether there was a specific issue anticipated for this jerkin or it could be issued in lieu of the leather jerkin. Its life span was short lived and was declared obsolete on 6 January 1920.

Joe Sweeney

P.S. Hopefully someone else may have found out some info.

[Andrew Upton]

The maker appears to be "Polikoff". Does that mean anything to any of you?

Taff, since this has been bumped up, possibly a connection to the maker of this?

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Alfred-Polikoff-1952-Army-Greatcoat-/181033164533?pt=UK_Men_s_Vintage_Coats_Jackets&hash=item2a266adef5&ssPageName=RSS:B:SHOP:GB:101

[Chief_Chum]

Hi Andrew,

Thanks for that. Nice to know they were still going well into the 1950s.

Cheers,

Taff

[mark holden]

I have just bought this Jerkin Utility which I hope is WW1 period. Of note is that the leather is more grey than brown. it also has a line size number stitched into the inside. Opinions good or bad most welcome.

thanks

Mark

and the size label

[Chief_Chum]

Hi Mark,

It's a genuine Great War jerkin; very nice.

Cheers,

Taff

[mark holden]

Taff,

Great many thanks indeed. I have been after one for ages and hoped this was ok.

Mark

[mark holden]

Here is another leather jerkin I picked up today has many 'WW1' features e.g grey lined, leather football buttons held on by rings but no marks anywhere-but also no evidence of a post WW1 linen label either having been sewn in. Is this indeed WW1 period?

many thanks

Mark

back

interior

[Khaki]

Hello Mark,

Looks very much like a WW2 jerkin I saw recently, that was dated 1944, I could be wrong of course, but the shoulders do not look flared enough to me.

khaki

[mark holden]

Thanks Khaki!